Summer is approaching—arguably the best time for Baikal tourism. Irkutsk traveler and author of Around Baikal in 73 Days, Erast Butakov, shares the top hiking routes along the legendary lake’s shores. What does he recommend to travelers arriving in Irkutsk, the most accessible and civilized gateway to Baikal?
WESTERN ROUTES
The closest route from Irkutsk is from Listvyanka to Bolshie Koty, offering spectacular views of Lake Baikal. Despite its popularity, this trail has its dangers—particularly the infamous "Dog Trail," where fall accidents have occurred. It’s crucial to stick to the marked Big Baikal Trail (BBT) and resist the temptation to shortcut. From Bolshie Koty, explore toward Bolshoye Goloustnoye, a less risky segment. However, be aware that late spring visits may encounter numerous ticks. Nearby, there’s a giant Hunters’ Cave, but exploring requires spelunking experience.
The path between Bolshoye Goloustnoye and Peschanya Bay is treacherous, filled with steep cliffs and animal trails that are highly inconvenient—best to avoid. Traditionally, tourists enjoy visiting bays like Peschanya, Sennaya, and Babushka, renowned for their scenic cliffs. Sadly, much of the forest here burned in 2015. Popular hikes include the climb from Peschanya to Babushka, where you can see the famous Big and Small Bell Towers, and, in areas without cliffs, walk along the shoreline past Blackgrouse Rock, black with cormorants.
From Peschanya to Buguldeika, a straight route is blocked by cliffs, but an alternative pass over the Hargino mountain features a beautiful, clean Eľovka River. Along this trail, you can camp overnight—once a base for Irkutsk’s Agricultural Institute, it hosted winter lodges and deer feeding stations. You might encounter reindeer and even brown bears. The trail then descends sharply toward Peschanya, offering scenic views of Baikal.
Beyond Buguldeika lies the stunning Ayya Bay, where the scorching Tazheran Steppe begins, and cicadas fill the air. Near Sakhtu, visit the Valley of a Thousand Stones and nearby salt lakes—sacred shamanic sites.
Explore Lake Baikal's Hidden Gems
The Small Sea is beautiful from both Olkhon Island and the mainland. In the Sarma River gorge, you can find petroglyphs on cliffs and natural garnets. Kursk Gorge is another scenic spot, with trails within the gorge and along the mountain. Besides Olkhon, enjoy views of small islands like Zamogoy, the infamous “Island of the Damned,” historically a quarantine site for lepers.
Olkhon Island was home to a long-standing camp and a fish-processing plant that supplied fish domestically and to Communist bloc countries. Today, Olkhon is a spiritual hub and a major tourist destination, featuring the iconic Namlovka sculpture "The Keeper of Baikal" at Khoboy Cape.
At the end of the Small Sea, near Kursk, was the Baikal Radio Factory base—a site once used for testing equipment. Nearby flows the river that goes beneath the rocks, creating Frolikh Lake, which isn’t connected to Baikal. In June, this lake teems with grayling—great for fishing with a scoop net. Later, as the water level rises, grayling migrate back to Baikal.
Near the quiet village of Ongurën, you'll find an intriguing mini-power station resembling a locomotive or tractor—remnants of industrial infrastructure and another old winter lodge.
NORTHERN BAIKAL
The northern routes include the Cape Rytij—considered dangerous due to fatalities among hikers and pack animals. This spiritually significant trail requires permission from shamans and park authorities. A challenging route leads to the Lena River headwaters from the Pokoyniki Cape, accessible by kayak and requiring proper preparation. There’s a winter shelter at the top where you can spend the night. Each July, "Bear Weddings" occur here as bears gather.
When hiking in this region, make loud noises—baring your voice deters bears. If you encounter a male bear, stay calm and don’t run—retreat slowly. Do not release dogs toward bears.
NORTH
On the northern shores of Baikal, routes around the Molo kon River lead to uninhabited bays and the stunning "Crystal Ribbon" waterfall, where an ice glacier can be seen. Nearby, the Lower Angara region offers excellent fishing and views of early BAM tunnels.
Northern Baikal’s forests differ dramatically—more evergreens and abundant river fish. The area features both cozy resorts and old winter lodges.
Winter lodges are typically located in the forests, away from the shoreline, often nestled between trees. Finding a winter shelter is a good idea for safety and comfort—these huts are usually warmer and more secure than tents. While mice may inhabit them, they generally don’t pose a serious problem for tourists.
The Irkutsk side of Baikal is mountainous, offering more challenging hikes, whereas the Buryat side is more marshy, especially in the north. There, established trails along the lake are rare, and often hikers encounter heaps of boulders (kourumniks). Walking in the rain can be hazardous, as bears often visit these boulder areas to lick insects off the rocks—an important consideration for travelers.
This area also boasts beautiful bays like Ayaya, home to seals and seal pups, and Frolikh Lake. Additionally, you can visit healing springs in Khakusy, known for their therapeutic properties.
Further along, you'll find the village of Tompa, after which the Barguzin Nature Reserve begins—an untouched paradise for explorers.
EASTERN ROUTES
In the east, the Dvasha settlement, once a deserted hub of the reserve, has become a habitat for various wildlife, with moveable cords that offer shelter for animals. Along the Cheremshan River, you reach the Chivyrkuisky Bay, famed for its population of cranes and warm mineral springs nearby.
The Holy Nose Peninsula, along with Ushkany Islands teeming with seals and ants, remains one of the most scenic spots. A bridge has been built at Ust-Barguzin, replacing the previous ferry, making access easier. This region is characterized by picturesque towns like Goryachinsk and Gremyachinsk, as well as the mouth of the Selenge River, where a good road and a yacht club have been established. After the bridge, the Baikal Railway heads toward Ulan-Ude, passing through towns like Tanchai and Babushkin—where visitors can enjoy lakeside walks, rail journeys, or roadside stops.
SOUTHERN EXPLORATIONS
Travelers heading south can reach Baikalsk and Slyudyanka—but for the more adventurous, ascending the Khmar-Daban Mountain Range is a must. Here, climbing Bakhsa River’s peaks reveals winter lodges and saunas at the summit. The route includes stunning river canyons—best explored on skis in March. The Chersky Peak and Lake Heart are also breathtaking sites, with waterfalls on the right side of the lake. Weather stations provide safe overnight shelter before tackling the final stretch.
For experienced travelers, traversing the Baikal–Amur Magistral (BAM) railway line from Kultuk to Baikal port in just one and a half days is an exciting challenge. This route features tunnels, unique bridges, Italian-style walls, water towers, and numerous historic plaques, making it an open-air museum. Occasionally, remnants of military equipment from World War II are visible along the plateau. The ancient military posts, including the "Dark Valley" near Staraya Angasolka, add historical intrigue. These places are welcoming to travelers, especially those with a spirit of adventure.
Erast Butakov emphasizes that Lake Baikal’s beauty is always personal; even if two people walk the same trail, their experiences remain uniquely different. The lake constantly changes—something everyone can witness if they wish.
